Nova Scotia is the Cape Cod of Canada. It’s a charming peninsula of seaside towns, delicious seafood, and stunning vineyards. (My kind of triple threat!) It’s the perfect long-weekend getaway from the east coast — plus the best part of traveling anywhere in Canada is that everything is so inexpensive compared to the US.
We decided to bypass the Portland, ME ferry and drive the 12 hours from Boston to save a little cash. In hindsight, I think I would have looked further into The Cat Ferry (which is car-friendly, FYI) just for ease and a bit of scenic coastal views between Maine and Nova Scotia. There’s also a ferry that leaves out of St. John, but we endured all 12 hours driving straight up route 95 and arrived in Nova Scotia by 6 PM that night. (Nova Scotia is on Atlantic time and therefore an hour ahead of Boston.)
Where to Stay
When we booked our trip (just two weeks before we left) we didn’t know that we would be going to the world’s #1 travel destination of 2017 on the weekend of Canada Day, the country’s 150th birthday celebration. Needless to say, all the AirBnbs and lower-cost hotels of Halifax, the capital, were already booked. I’d done a little research and discovered a picturesque coastal town called Lunenburg just an hour south of Halifax. It was named a UNESCO world heritage site for its fishing culture and historic village life, and seemed like the perfect little town for a weekend getaway.
We booked a room at The Brigantine Inn & Suites when we found an AMAZING deal for an oceanview suite on Expedia! Our room was called the Romance Room, named after a ship called the Brigantine Romance which was built in 1936 (all the rooms are named after iconic ships!). For only $140 USD a night, we had a suite with amazing views of the bay, and our own private hot tub in a room off the bathroom with its own sweeping waterfront views!
The next best room at the inn was the one directly below us, called the Picton Castle which has its own private balcony with the same scenic views overlooking the harbor. Not to mention, right below the little inn was one of the BEST restaurants we ate at during our entire time in Nova Scotia called the Grand Banker.
Where to Eat
The Grand Banker: Delicious seafood restaurant right below the Brigantine Inn. Try the lobster burger! There isn’t much for outdoor seating, but the inside is quaint and full of locals, with great music being played a few nights a week. Beware of the cover costs though on band nights.
The Old Fish Factory: A charming and tasty restaurant attached to the Fishing Museum. I had my first Tidal Bay wine, made right at the vineyards of Nova Scotia. The wine is distinct to the region and is similar to a blend of a sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio. My personal favorite was by Jost Vineyards.
Rum Runner: This restaurant has great outdoor patio perfect to watch the sunset and have a glass of wine. The seafood chowder is so fresh and delicious.
What to Do
Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic: As I mentioned, Lunenburg was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995. This designation ensures the protection of the town’s unique architecture and history. Much of that history belongs to the fishing families of Lunenburg. The town was originally planned as an agricultural haven due to its rich soil, but its proximity to the coast soon took the reigns to transform the port town into the fishing village it still is today. The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic is hard to miss in its charming red wooden building right along the wharf. The museum commemorates the fishing culture of the Atlantic Coast of Canada, with exhibits, information, and guides explaining the museum and life of a fisherman. The first floor of the museum is free to enter, but to explore all the exhibits, head to the gift shop to purchase tickets for just $12. Also make sure you go out to the Fisherman’s Memorial along Bluenose Drive which commemorates the men and women from the area who lost their lives at sea.
Bluenose 2: Built right in Lunenburg, the Bluenose was a vessel unlike any other. Built in 1921, she was famed as a racing ship and fishing vessel, giving her the name of :The Queen of the Atlantic.” The Bluenose became an icon for Nova Scotia and Canada in the 1930’s as it showcased their fishing and shipbuilding industries. The majestic ship was sadly wrecked in 1946, but not before appearing on the Canadian dime as well as three different postage stamps. The legend today lives on in the Bluenose II which sails around Nova Scotia and North America right out of Lunenburg to be featured in trade visits and events such as the Tall Ships in Boston. If you’re lucky, you might get a glimpse of her in the Lunenburg harbor while visiting.
Ironworks Distillery: This micro-distillery gets its name from the building it calls home. Built in 1893, this historic site was once the workshop of a marine blacksmith who specialized in ironworks in the booming industry of shipbuilding. In 2009, Ironworks Distillery was born with the intent to make spirits with the same raw craft that once persevered the successful blacksmith shop. The micro-distillery also sources as many of its ingredients as possible from the Nova Scotia landscape, including apples, pears, grapes, raspberries, blueberries which are all used to create the distinct spirits of Ironworks.
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